The Magnificent Seven: WFM’S Best Sicilian Restaurants
Don Camillo
Sicily, like all distinctive cultures, reveals its essence through its kitchens. Basically food tells a story. The island’s diverse and complicated history makes a culinary journey here unique and fascinating. I have already discussed the broad themes that make dining in Sicily a remarkable experience. Separate visits in 2024 and 2025 provided the opportunity to sample wonderful restaurants in all the island’s regions. Overall, a Sicilian meal is an ongoing conversation between ancient traditions and contemporary expressions and techniques. It is a multicultural delight. I have identified seven restaurants which best captured the commitment to cooking excellence on the island. I am certain many other establishments would also qualify, but these are my top choices based on personal experience. Each represent a different facet of Sicilian gastronomy, From the refined excellence in Ortigia’s historic quarter to the innovative heights of Modica’s fine dining season, the volcanic terroir of Taormina and Mount Etna and finally to the authentic street food culture in Palermo, these establishments offer a stirring portrait of Sicily’s culinary soul.
1. DON CAMILLO: Ortigia- Via delle Maestranze 96.
Tucked within the baroque labyrinth of Syracuse’s Ortigia island, Don Camillo occupies a space where history and gastronomy interact with remarkable grace. The setting is striking - basically cave dining. The dining room is extraordinary- an ancient grotto with stone walls, and subdued lighting. The interplay between the natural rock formations and soft colour tones creates an intimate atmosphere with unrivaled ambiance. It shouts “SPECIAL OCCASION.” The unique architectural setting is highlighted in travel publications and food blogs because it seamlessly blends history with hospitality. It also sets the stage for great food and service. The menu is seafood focused. The presentation is classy. The preparation employs classic Sicilian techniques- allowing the natural ingredients and the Mediterraneans seafood bounty to shine without embellishment. The eggplant cream with baccala, the tuna crudo, the paccheri pasta with swordfish and the linguine with sea urchin were all excellent. The wine program deserves special recognition. We chose Mt Etna whites that were perfect complements to the barrage of seafood featured in each course. The Carricante grape flourishes in the volcanic terroir and its crisp acidity balances the herbs and spicy sauces that accompany the food courses. Finally, the service strikes a perfect balance between professionalism and warmth. The sommelier was super knowledgeable and the wait staff is expert in describing the menu- expounding on the catch of the day or the special characteristic of Sicilian olive oil. The entire package created a memorable evening.
2.ACCURSIO: Modica; Via Grimaldi 41.
Modica is a spectacular baroque hilltop town, It is known for its churches, its chocolate and its food. Accursio is nestled tightly in an elevated location immediately next to the cathedral. We met the chef, Accursio Craparo, and he emphasised his commitment to honouring Sicily’s culinary heritage while pushing the boundaries with contemporary techniques and presentations. He adopted a tasting menu format and the courses build effectively on one another. We experienced pistachios pecorino, fennel, wild asparagus, sardines, sea bass, eggplant, lamb and tagliatelle. The dessert was a cassata with ricotta foam and candied fruit. The wine was a local Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Service was formal but welcoming. They are cultural ambassadors who guide the diner through the menu and explain the philosophy behind each dish. The dining room is elegant and understated, allowing the food to command centre stage. It is an innovative dining experience but it is not stuffy. Highly recommended.
3. IL CUMANANU: Palermo; Via Vittorio Emanuele 102.
Palermo is a must see destination. The living history is overwhelming. The architecture is breathtaking and the street markets are fun. In a city where food culture is important and runs deeper than the archaeological layers that surround it, Il Cumananu stands out. It is located in a gritty area, but elevates street food traditions to a special level. It is contemporary in style, but also traditional in how it celebrates Palermo’s culinary identity. The menu is a love letter to Sicily’s capital. Panelle (chickpea fritters), arancini, caponata, fresh ricotta, Pasta con le Sarde, Pasta alla Norma Pesto Trappanese, featuring ingredients like sardines, eggplant, basil, tomatoes, pecorino, pine nuts, fennel, almonds. The kitchen employs precise modern methods, strict temperature and portion control and premium ingredients- all in presenting dishes that vendors have been selling from carts for generations. The wine selection emphasises varietals from small local vintners whose bottles rarely travel beyond Sicily’s shores.The staff is young and enthusiastic and the sommelier loves sharing his knowledge of these underpublicized winemakers. He takes great pride in introducing you to these wines and transformed our meal into an education on Sicilian viticulture. The atmosphere is convivial and reflects the energy of Palermo generally. The restaurant succeeds because it understands that Palermitan cuisine cannot be separated from Palermitan hospitality, culture and history. The bottom line is the food is outstanding and lucky diners will experience a generosity of spirit throughout the evening.
Recommendations 4-7 all stem from our 2024 trip to Taormina and Mount Etna. This is distinctive culinary terroir. Europe’s most active volcano creates a dramatic landscape and produces wines and foodstuffs unlike anywhere else in the world. The proximity to both sea and mountain means menus that showcase everything from pristine Mediterranean seafood to hearty mountain fare featuring wild mushrooms, game and robust wines. The region’s cuisine favours bold mineral driven flavours that reflect the volcanic terroir. The wine culture is exceptional. This region should be on your short list for upcoming travel. Quality restaurants are everywhere. My favourites follow:
4. OTTO GELENG: Taormina; Via Teatro Greco 59.
Perched on the terrace of the legendary Grand Hotel Timeo, Otto Geleng stands as Sicily’s most exclusive restaurant. There are only 8 tables and the views of Mt Etna and the Ionian Sea are stunning. It is named after a German painter who fell in love with the area in the 1860’s and it has Michelin star status. We shared a risotto based on local seafood, a lamb raised in local pastures and a medley of local vegetables. The service was flawlessly choreographed and the staff was brilliant in describing the unique elements in each dish. The dining experience here is transformative and PRICEY! The setting next to an ancient Greek theatre is special and lends an artistic spin to the whole evening. GO!
5. VICOLO STRETTO: Taormina; Vicolo Stretta 6.
Finding Vicolo Stretto requires determination- the entrance through Taormina’s narrowest alley feels like a secret passage to another world. But- once you successfully navigate the impossibly narrow stairs, you are rewarded with a rooftop terrace that offers stunning views. The atmosphere is magical- you feel like you are dining at the home of a good friend. Luckily, a friend that is an expert cook. The menu is entirely Sicilian classics prepared with modern techniques and presented with artistic flair. The truffle pasta was incredible. You meet the owner Massimo and it is an intimate setting that generates enormously good vibes.
6. LA TAVERNETTA: Taormina: Via Timoleone 22/24.
La Tavernetta occupies one of the most romantic dining locations in Italy. The restaurant cascades down a series of stone steps, with outdoor tables nestled among flowering plants that perfume the evening air. The menu represents the best of Sicilian seafood traditions, with the owner Salvatore’s passion for fresh fish evident in every course. The raw fish preparations were particularly excellent. The food was a balance between lush flavours and light textures. Service reflected the staff’s pride in their location, sharing stories about the ancient theatre and Taormina’s illustrious past. Dining here is timeless- embracing tradition but still vibrantly alive and fresh.
7. OSTERIA SANTA DOMENICA: Taormina; Via di Giovanni 47.
This is boutique restaurant in the heart of Taormina. The caponata ruled! The chef visits each table and he personally explains the dishes and wine pairings to guests. The dining room is uber friendly and the conversation flows easily. The kitchen’s technical skill is evident, but the strength of the space is the atmosphere. You leave well fed and confident that you have learned a ton about Sicily and its culture. Impressive indeed!
Each meal at these wonderful establishments reinforced why Sicily occupies such a unique position in Mediterranean cuisine- an island where Greek, Arab, Norman and Spanish influences have created something entirely its own. The dramatic geology of Sicily also contributed to the special dining scene- active volcanoes, limestone plateaus and seafood rich coastlines. The restaurants serve great food and also teach culture, identity and history on every plate. Dining in Sicily is very rewarding, but you better enjoy your seafood!
