Sicilian Adventure: Chapter One- The Cuisine
We recently competed a 9 day trip to Sicily. We attended an elegant destination wedding outside of Palermo and also stayed in Ortigia, Modica, Agrigento and Palermo. We enjoyed the experience and will devote several upcoming essays on the wonders of Sicilian culture and history. It may be the most complicated island in the world. It is the largest in the Mediterranean and has been touched by a stunning mosaic of cultures: Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Spaniards, French, Jews- with a touch of Brits, Americans and pirates thrown into the mix. It is a 2500 year history lesson. The architecture is magnificent, the topography a blend of mountains and coastline and Mt Etna is the most active volcano in Europe. We visited in 2024 on a Vines Global trip and stayed in Taormina and visited first class wineries in the Mt Etna wine region. I previously reported on that visit so will not revisit that part of the island in depth now. In brief, Taormina is beautiful, interesting and touristy. The White Lotus effect- Americans everywhere. The Mt Etna wine region deserves respect and the top producers- Benanti, Cornielson, Passopicario are worthy of your attention. Today, we will embrace the challenge of describing Sicilian cuisine. It is sui generis.
Sicilian cuisine is different from mainland Italian cooking because of the extraordinary cultural layering discussed above. Over 2 millennia, Greek, Arab, Norman and North Africa influences have created a food culture entirely distinct from northern or central Italians traditions. Unlike mainland Italy’s butter and cream based cooking of the northern regions or the olive oil and tomato traditions of central Italy, Sicily combines Mediterranean ingredients with Arab influenced spices, North African techniques and Spanish style preparations. The end result is more aromatic and internationally influenced than any other region in Italy. It works. There is a powerful seafood tradition and the pasta and pasta sauces are distinctive. Plus, the wine culture is experiencing a renaissance and there are distinct regional differences within Sicily itself. Your menus are rather unpredictable. The local spices are magnificent. I will attempt to describe the essentials, admittedly in very broad strokes.
Sicilian seafood culture is unparalleled in Italy. Key preparations are grilled, rolled or stuffed swordfish; tuna prepared in dozens of ways; sardines often accompanied by fennel or pine nuts; sea urchins; anchovies both fried and preserved and couscous with fish showing the North African influence. The distinctive pastas are Pasta Alla Norma with eggplant, tomato, basil and ricotta; Pasta con le Saree with sardines, raisins, pine nuts and fennel; Pasta con Ricci with sea urchins; Pesto Trapanese with tomato, basil, garlic, almonds and pecorino cheese (my favourite!) Other noteworthy menu regulars are Caponata- a sweet and sour eggplant creation and Arancini-stuffed and irregularly shaped rice balls. The essential spices are pistachios, almonds, pine nuts, fennel, capers, sea salt, saffron, wild oregano, mint, orange and lemon zest. The olive oils are spicy and have kick. Palermo is more Arab influenced and offers more meat based dishes. It is also a street food lovers heaven with panel, crocche and sfincione. Ortigia is more seafood focused with Greek influences in presentation and combinations. They are also famous for granita and brioche based breakfast culture. It actually presents a more complex culinary profile than mainland Italy and I LOVE all mainland regional cuisines. The spice usage makes dishes more complex. There is extensive use of nuts and sweet and sour flavour profiles are common. The bread is focaccia style and the cheese traditions are distinct (pecorino siciliano and ricotta applications.) I also appreciated the rather simple dessert offerings- cannoli, cassata and granita.
Overall, the Sicilian food culture is fascinating. The cuisine reflects Sicily’s position as the Mediterranean crossroads- it manages to be Italian while completely doing its own thing. The food journey alone makes a visit to Sicily worthwhile, particularly if you are an aspiring foodie.
