Sicily: The Crossroads of Civilisation
Sicily stands as perhaps the most complex and fascinating island in the world- a place where the threads of human civilisation have been woven together in a rich human tapestry. As a American visiting journalist once observed, “To understand Italy, you have to understand Sicily-remember that.” Sicilian born Nobel Prize winner Luigi Pirandello elevated this sentiment even further by commenting, “ To understand Europe, you must understand Sicily.” These words capture the profound truth that this triangular island at the heart of the Mediterranean has served as a mirror and crucible for the broader currents of Western civilisation. This explains its magnetic appeal as a travel destination.
Sicily’s magnificent history is written in layers, each conquering civilisation adding its own chapter to a compelling narrative while never fully erasing what came before. The Phoenicians recognised the island’s strategic importance and established trading posts that would become the foundation for future commerce. The Greeks followed, transforming Sicily and leaving behind temples that still stand as monuments to their architectural genius. The Romans incorporated the island into their expanding empire, followed by the Byzantines who brought Eastern Orthodox Christianity and artistic traditions. The Arabs ruled for 200 years and brought advanced agricultural techniques and introduced citrus fruits, sugar cane and sophisticated irrigation systems. They also established vibrant centres of learning and created a multicultural society that would permanently influence the island. The Norman conquest followed and synthesised the Arab achievements with Western engineering and art- creating medieval Europe’s most cosmopolitan kingdom. The Spanish, Bourbons, British and Americans each added their own contributions to the ongoing story- Sicily became a living museum. Every medieval and ancient map included this fabulous island, recognising its central importance to Mediterranean culture and power. Dante wrote of Sicily in the Divine Comedy, describing it as the beautiful stepping stone connecting Africa, Spain, Greece and Italy- a geographic and metaphorical bridge between worlds. Read the complex and intriguing history of Sicily before you board your flight to Palermo or Catania. Knowledge, as always, will enrich your experience.
Ultimately, Sicily is a theatre and the live performance is a combination of nature and culture. The island’s breathtaking landscape, dominated by Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano, provides a fitting backdrop for this human drama. The volcano’s fertile soils have nourished both crops and creativity, supporting the agriculture abundance that has sustained Sicily through countless transformations. The interplay between natural grandeur and human curiosity and creativity has made Sicily a magnet for artists, writers and philosophers. Truman Capote and Tennessee Williams found inspiration in its beauty and traditions, living and writing in Taormina. Sigmund Freud was captivated by the splendour of its colours, smells and vistas-describing Sicily as an intense sensory experience. Filmmakers Roberto Rossellini and Michelangelo Antonioni brought the nobility and simplicity of Sicilian traditions to global audiences. A critic said that cinema loves Sicily because Sicily is cinema- a natural interplay of light, shadow, reality and dreams. Sicily was a key stop on the nineteenth and twenty century “Grand Tours” of the rich and famous and our experience validated its status as a “special” destination.
Sicily is not perfect or pristine. It is a laboratory of contradictions. Human nature is revealed in all its complexity- good and bad. The architecture is indeed divine, from Greek temples that rival those of Athens to Baroque masterpieces that represent the pinnacle of artistic achievement. Arab gardens demonstrate a sophisticated understanding of aesthetics and style, while Sicilian cathedrals showcase a wide variety of architectural periods. This cultural sophistication coexists with corruption and violence. The Mafia remains an odious and dangerous reality, but it has been courageously challenged by heroic magistrates like Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino- whose sacrifices are honoured by monuments and piazzas on the island. This duality- beauty and nobility versus corruption and brutality is at the heart of Sicily. Everything is intense, concentrated and real.
We have already discussed the cuisine and our favourite restaurants. The food also represents the story of cultural change and adaptation. The markets are overwhelming- the variety of items almost a shock. It is a feast of abundance- tuna and swordfish, eggplants in dozens of varieties. sea urchins, anchovies, bottarga, pistachios, olives and arancini. The spice markets carry the aromatic legacy of Arab traders, while local specialties like Modican chocolate preserve techniques unchanged since Spanish colonial times.
We loved Sicily and am frankly embarrassed it took us so long to visit this unique place. It is an island where the Mediterranean’s greatest cultures have met, clashed and eventually created something entirely original. It has witnessed the rise and fall of empires, religious wars and succeeded in maintaining a distinct identity. It is a place where ancient wisdom and contemporary challenges intersect and interact in fascinating ways. Embrace the journey- I recommend September or October as the ideal time to experience the joys of Sicily.
