The WFM Sicily Grand Tour

Sicily was a regular destination on the traditional “Grand Tour” expeditions of the European and then American elites and aristocracy. This rather decadent lifestyle has faded into the annals of history, but I submit that would be an appropriate destination today if the tech and finance bros decide to revive the practice. The towns and cities scattered across this remarkable landscape each bring something special to the table.  The theatrical beauty of Taormina, the Baroque splendour of Noto and Modica, the Greek heritage in Ortigia and Agrigento and the multicultural heritage of Palermo will captivate a visitor seeking to encounter cultural complexity and a unique political and religious history. Plus, the weather is great. Here is my travel guide - designed for all- not just the Rich and Famous. 

TAORMINA: Perched dramatically on Monte Tauro between the Ionian Sea and the smoking summit of Etna, Taormina represents Sicily at its most seductive and refined. It is a jewel. The town’s elegant streets and exclusive atmosphere have long attracted the world’s cultural elite. At Taormina’s heart lies the magnificent Greek theatre carved from the mountainside in 300 BC and enlarged later by the Romans. It is a natural amphitheatre, framing the peak of Mt Etna and the azure waters of the Mediterranean. Literally, a perfect setting.

Soak it up!  The town is also an ideal base for hiking Mt Etna or exploring the wine country. Volcanic soils produce serious wines of complexity and character. A leisurely boat cruise from Taormina’s waters offers a brilliant perspective and the sea extends a warm invitation to a swim. The Greeks made strategic choices when they chose their bases in Sicily- defensible and gorgeous. There is a cultural refinement here. The hotel choices cover all ranges of budget and taste. We stayed at the Belmont Grand Timeo. Loved it!  We have already identified our favourite restaurants here. Ultimately, Taormina is civilised and fun. 

ORTIGIA: If Taormina represents Sicily’s artistic refinement, Ortigia represents its historical soul.  This small island, connected to Syracuse by bridges, marks the spot where the Greek invaders first established themselves in 734BC. It is literally the birthplace of Sicilian civilisation. Walking through Ortigia (and it is a GREAT walking city) is moving through a fairy tale where intimate piazzas, bubbling fountains and winding medieval streets create an enchanting atmosphere. The island’s compact scale intensifies every experience- the fantastic street market where vendors hawk everything from fresh sea urchins to handcrafted soaps and candles, the perfume shops, the Andrea Chiesa art gallery, the Jewish Quarter- a stunning and diverse mosaic. Restaurants galore featuring traditional and innovative Sicilian cuisine and seaside walks where the locals claim rocky beaches as their own for partying and sun worshipping.  Everything is interesting and pleasing to the senses. 

Ortigia’s Duomo, Santa Maria del Pilar, stands as a perfect symbol of Sicily’s layered civilisation.  The church was literally built around the 5th Century BC Greek Temple and the original doric columns remain visible within the christian nave.  Greek marble supports Norman arches beneath a Baroque facade. A bit head spinning!  Nearby, the Temple of Apollo site reminds visitors of the island’s pre Roman past. The Neapolis Archaeological park and the nearby museum reveals Syracuse’s ancient grandeur, displaying treasures unearthed by the legendary archaeologist Paolo Orsi. His systematic excavations all over Sicily revolutionised our understanding of Sicily’s complex history. He was a true scholar.  Orsi’s meticulous work uncovered literally thousands of artifacts and paved the way for greater understanding of Sicily’s historical narrative. You should also visit the Church of Santa Lucia which houses a Caravaggio masterpiece “The Burial of Saint Lucy.”

Ortigia may have been my favourite spot on the island. It is small and manageable, but truly reveals Sicily’s essential character. The palette of sun bleached pastels creates a visual poetry and the narrow streets and intimate and weathered courtyards gives you a powerful sense of history in action. We stayed at Henry House and loved its location and warm service. The Castello Maniace guards the port entrance and you almost expect a foreign flotilla to land soon and add another chapter to Sicily’s vivid multicultural history. 

NOTO: A devastating earthquake in 1693 reduced southeastern Sicily to rubble and completely destroyed the town of Noto. It was a catastrophe, but laid the foundation for one of architecture’s great triumphs- the rebuilding of Noto as a Baroque masterpiece. It is a  Unesco World Heritage site and enjoys the reputation as the most beautiful Baroque village in Sicily.  There are magnificent churches everywhere. Walking down Noto’s main thoroughfare, the Corso Victor Emanuele is like strolling through an open air museum.  The honey coloured limestone gives the village a warm golden glow.  The Cathedral of San Nicolo dominates the skyline with its magnificent dome. The church of Carlo al Borgo showcases the Baroque love of dramatic facades and sculpture. Chiesa San Domenico has a theatrical staircase and Chiesa Charles Borromeo and Francesca Immaculata have spectacular interiors. Noto rewards visitors who binge on churches as each sanctuary reveals new aspects of architectural ambition and decorative virtuosity. Baroque architects were aggressive, but every balcony, cornice, staircase and statue creates a sense of harmony. Stimulating, but spiritual and soothing. It is a good stop as you journey from Ortigia to Modica and Ragusa. 

MODICA: Modica also rose from the ashes of the 1693 earthquake, but its reconstruction followed a different path than Noto, Modica is built into a rocky gorge and the town is vertical. It cascades down the hillside in layers and the Baroque churches and palaces climb toward the sky- the town is a theatre of stone. Our hotel- Casa Talia provide scintillating views. Incredible at nite. The Duomo of San Giorgio stands as Modica’s architectural masterpiece - again a religious space that is almost flamboyant. The Church of San Pietro is also stunning with its facade depicting the 12 apostles. Modica is also a UNESCO World Heritage site- cited for its overall urban plan with narrow streets winding between Baroque noble palaces, stone houses. Modica’s most unique claim to fame is its chocolate, produced according to methods introduced by the Spanish from the Aztec Empire in Mexico. Who knew?? At the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, visitors can witness these time-honoured techniques, where cacao is worked cold with sugar and spices, creating a grainy, intensely flavoured chocolate unlike any found elsewhere in Europe.  The process remains virtually unchanged since the 16th century. We took the class and bought some chocolate. Modica is unique and impressive. Dine at Accursio. 

VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE: This is a centrally located sprawling 4th Century AD Roman villa. It is extraordinary and its collection of Roman mosaics is excellent. The villa displays Roman taste for imperial luxury and its appreciation of artistic achievement. The most famous mosaic- the “bikini girls”, depicting female athletes in almost modern sportswear has captured the popular imagination. However, it is only one example of artistic drama in the villa. The place is enormous and each room has mosaics that tell a story representative of the times. There are depictions of exotic animals from Africa being captured by Roman legionaries, hunting expeditions, domestic life. The Great Hunt mosaic stretches across an entire corridor and presents a panoramic vision of the global reach of the Roman Empire.  The craftsmanship is amazing - million soft tiny stone pieces creating light, shadows and movement that compare favourably to any great painting. You see elephants, ostriches, tigers and rhinoceros being captured and brought to Rome for imperial spectacles in the Colosseum. There is also a Chamber of Eros and a tribute to Hercules. It is another UNESCO World Heritage site and reminds the visitor that Sicily was an important cog in the Roman Empire. 

AGRIGENTO: Few places on earth can match the Agrigento Valley of Temples for sheer archaeological majesty.  Here, along a ridge facing the Mediterranean stand the best preserved Greek temples outside of Athens. The Temple of Concordia, dating to 440BC is virtually intact, a honey coloured stone masterpiece best observed at sunset. The Temple of Juno offers panoramic views across the valley and sea.  Each structure is a compliment to the ambition of Ancient Greece. The local archaeological museum is first rate- the collection spans Sicily’s entire ancient history, from prehistoric culture through the Roman Empire. Its Greek holding are unparalleled. For the complete Agrigento experience, the Villa Athena offers world class accommodations with its terrace providing views of the illuminated temples at nite. The hotel restaurant is gourmet and the combination of the food and the views guarantees a magical evening. The town also honours its connection to Nobel Prize winner Luigi Pirandello- whose birthplace and museum celebrate his literary contributions.  

PALERMO: This is a real city- gritty, chaotic and loud. Its current population approaches 2 million souls. It can be intimidating, but stick with it because I ultimately it is a very exiting place to visit.  All the contradictions of Sicily manifest themselves here.  Arab domes rise beside Norman towers and ancient food and spice markets operate in the shadow of Baroque churches. Palermo is the island’s capital and its heartbeat. It is the political driver in Sicily and the Mafia remains vibrant. The Cathedral is a mixture of Norman, Gothic and Neo-Classical elements and the Palazzi die Normanni houses the Cappella Palatine where Arab craftsman and artisans created Christian art under Norman patronage. The fusion of Islamic and Christian styles is a cultural fusion you don’t see in many parts of the world. Here, in Palermo, it stares you in the face.  The Arab influence is quite pronounced here.  There are geometric stone floor patterns and red domes.  The markets allegedly copied those in Cairo and Damascus.  Other leading sites are the Chiesa della Matorana, and Santa Caterina. They are examples of the Byzantine and medieval eras.  Teatro Massimo is the third largest opera house in Europe and played an important role in Garibaldi’s conquering Sicily and moving Italy to unification.  There is also the Piazza Pretoria with its elaborate fountain surrounded by nude figures and the Quattro Canti.  Street markets offer a sensory overload and a mini international food banquet.  This is also a city shaped by struggle and tragedy.  The Mafia’s presence and its American progeny born of Sicilian emigration casts a shadow over the city. There is a feel of corruption and greed in the air. The waste management process its poor- the city is dirty. The good news is that the anti- mafia movement remains active in Palermo and the jails are now filled with Cosa Nostra figures. Overall, Palermo stimulates rather than soothes, challenges rather than comforts.  It demands curiosity, patience and engagement. It will reward people who are willing to look beyond the surface and discover proud humanity and rich history that pulses thru the streets. The food is excellent. Palermo, with its beauty and brutality, its sophistication and street smarts, ancient traditions and modern aspirations produces a tension that is hard to categorise with confidence. Naples is my best comparison. Definitely warrants a multi day exploration.