The Cuisine of Piedmont: Where Mountains Meet Refinement
Our Piedmont Vines Global sponsored wine journey to Piedmont also served as a real time seminar on the nuances of the region’s cuisine. Lesson Number 1 is that Piedmont charts its own course. This is Italy’s most northern cuisine and it is shaped by Alpine winters, autumn fog and the aristocratic legacy of the House of Savoy and their noble acolytes. You immediately recognise that Piedmontese cuisine is profoundly different from the rest of Italy. It is sui generis. While most of the country looks to the Mediterranean - olive oil, tomatoes, seafood and sun-ripened vegetables and fruits- Piedmont turns its back to the sea and faces the Alps. This is a cuisine of butter and cream, of truffles and hazelnuts, of rich braises and substantial risottos. It is aristocratic with a rustic flair. It is French influenced but still distinctly Italian.
For most Americans, the cuisine of Piedmont presents a significant learning curve- much like Barolo and Barbaresco wines do for those accustomed to more familiar Italian reds. When Americans think of Italian food, we typically envision red sauce pasta dishes, pizza and the tomato heavy cooking of southern Italy and Italian-American adaptations. Piedmontese specialties rarely appear in the vast majority of American Italian restaurants. Few of us grew up with Agnolotti di Pin, Brasato al Barolo or Bagna Cauda on the table. Piedmont emphasises rice over pasta and autumn and winter are the culinary peaks- not summer. White truffles and hazelnuts are signature ingredients, not seafood or Mediterranean produce. This makes Piedmont the most “un-Italian” cuisine. In some ways, it is closer to French alpine cooking. However on close examination it remains thoroughly Italian in its respect for local ingredients, seasonality and a regional identity. Our visit was short, but I am a fan and look forward to deepening my exposure to this style of cooking.
This unfamiliarity made our wine trip in October, at the height of white truffle season and vendemmia (grape harvest) an extraordinary revelation. It was an opportunity to experience a distinct expression of Italian cuisine, one that felt incredibly authentic but borderline foreign. Over the course of our journey, surrounded by families who make these wines and prepare the foods, we developed a deep respect for the culinary traditions. To gain proper perspective, we must catalog the key differences between Piedmont and the other food centre Italian districts and regions.
The most fundamental distinction lies in fat. While the rest of Italy builds its cuisine on olive oil, Piedmont uses butter as the primary cooking medium. Piedmont’s continental climate makes olive cultivation impossible. Instead, the region’s long dairy tradition provides butter, cream and rich cheeses. This single reality resonates through the entire culinary culture, creating richer and more textured dishes. When you prepare a risotto with a final touch of butter and Parmigiana, you create a wave of creaminess impossible to achieve with olive oil. The regional contrasts are vivid and striking. In Emilia Romagna egg pastas and pork reign supreme. Tagliatelle, Tortellini, Mortadella and Prosciutto define the region. In Tuscany, olive oil dominates and simple presentations emphasise quality ingredients- think Bistecca Fioerentina, Wild Boar, Cannellini Ribolilita and Papa al Pomodore. In Rome, the signature dishes are olive based and guanciale and pecorino define the iconic pasta dishes (Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe, and Amatriciana). In Campania and Naples there is a tomato centric cuisine and pizza was perfected here. Dried pastas come with seafood or tomato based sauces. Mediterranean vegetables rule! In Sicily, Arab, Spanish and Greek influences create unique complexity and flavours. Abundant seafood, eggplant, pistachios, citrus, pine nuts and saffron are standard fare. We have been in Rome and spent 10 days in Sicily in September and there is almost no carryover to what we ate in Piedmont. Mindboggling and fun- it is all GOOD!
Piedmont has a host of culinary treasures. First, October’s Diamond- The White Truffle. While other regions have black truffles, Piedmont’s white truffles are one of the world’s most prized and expensive ingredients. White truffle season runs from late September thru early December. October is prime time and we saw the foraging operation in action. The truffles grow wild in the forest and are foraged by trained dogs who can detect them underground near oak, poplar, hazel and willow roots. A single kilogram can command 5000 euros. Their aroma is intoxicating- earthy, garlicky, honey like with notes of hay and fermented cheese. They are never cooked. They are shaved raw over warm dishes just before serving. The classic seasonal dishes utilising white truffles are Tajarin al Tartufo, Risotto al Tartufo Bianco, Fonduta con Tartufo and Carne Cruda All’Albese.
Risotto is huge in Piedmont for the simple reason that Piedmont produces most of Italy’s rice in the Po Valley. Risotto occupies a place in Piedmontese cuisine that pasta holds elsewhere. Arborio rice is the most frequently used rice for risotto dishes internationally, but Piedmontese chefs prefer Carnaroli. Carnaroli holds its shape better during cooking, maintains a more al dente texture and creates superior creaminess. The Piedmontese finish their risotto preparation with a flourish- a technique called “mantecatura” which separates it from other Italian regional risottos. After cooking, the rice is removed from heat and vigorously stirred with butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano, creating a tidal wave of cream that flows in abundance when the dish is plated. The classic Piedmontese risottos are Risotto al Barolo, Risotto al Funghi Porcini, Risotto al Tartufo Bianco and Risotto al Gorgonzola.
Pasta is not as central to Piedmont as it is in other regions, but the area has two iconic preparations that are showcased in the top local restaurants. The first is Agnolotti del Plin- small pinched pasta parcels stuffed with meats and processed with herbs. Traditionally, they are served on white napkins without sauce. If sauce is used, it is typically butter and sage. During truffle season, butter and white truffle shavings represent the ultimate presentation. The second is Tajarin- a thin ribbon egg pasta made with an abundance of egg yolks. Tajarin has a rich golden colour and luxurious texture. Piedmont’s pasta tradition reflects restraint and prioritizes filling quality over sauce complexity. The pasta portions are small, typically a first course- not the main event.
The next winner is Bagna Cauda- an anchovy- garlic- butter- olive oil dip served in a terracotta pot, kept warm over a small flame. Diners participate communally, dipping raw and cooked vegetables in the tasty sauce. The vegetables are local- cardoons, Jerusalem artichokes, red peppers, cabbage, cauliflower, onions, fennel or celery. The anchovies come from Liguria and they are obtained in trades for Piedmont vino and herbs. This is peasant food elevated by quality ingredients. These same vegetables are central to almost every dish on a Piedmont restaurant menu. We saw them everywhere, creatively deployed in support of elegant meals. They are common in hearty Piedmontese soups. Finally, the onion holds a sacred place in the Piedmont cuisine. The classic dishes are Cipolle Ripen, Cipollino in Agrodolce and Cipollata.
We can't discuss Piedmont without discussing meats and the art of the braise. Piedmont has a strong cattle raising tradition and here is where the most prized breeds produce the most high quality beef. The meats do tend to be tougher cuts and a tradition of long slow cooking methods has been in place for generations. Piedmont’s most famous meat dish is Brasato al Barolo where the beef is braised for hours in a Barolo wine with spices and vegetables. The wine’s tannins break down the meat while creating a rich complex sauce. The dish is served with mashed potatoes or polenta. My other favourite meat dish was Vitello Tonnato- cold veal with a tuna anchovy-mayonnaise sauce. An odd combination until you taste it- excellent.
Another Piedmont gem is hazelnuts. The Tonda Gentile delle Langhe hazelnut is one of the region’s most celebrated products and the foundation of Piedmont’s tradition and reputation as a world class chocolate producer. The hazelnuts are grown around Alba and have a protected IGP status which guarantees their origin and quality. Their unique features are high fat content, an intense aromatic flavour, a round uniform shape, a thin shell and a perfect skin to kernel ratio. The same hills that produce Barolo Nebbiolo grapes and white truffles have also proven to be an ideal terror for hazelnuts- an abundance of riches! The company that has built a world class reputation for hazelnut chocolates is Ferrero- founded in Alba in 1946. It started as a small pastry shop and is now a global phenomenon. Ferrero just bought Kellog and is considered one of the most profitable enterprises in the world. They are famous for Nutella, Tic Tac, Kinder Products and Ferrero Rocher gold wrapped chocolates. They are still privately held and very committed to the Alba locality. No plant tours though- very private people. Hazelnuts are commonly used in Piedmontese desserts- Amaretti cookies and Baca di Dama (lady kisses.) Piedmont is also associated with a series of distinctive Italian desserts, including Panna Cotta, Zabaglione and Torte Nocciole.
Piedmontese wine and food evolved together and they make a perfect marriage. There is a synergy that surpasses other Italian regions because everything evolved in the same microclimate with similar seasonal rhythms. There is nothing better than a Risotto with White Truffles paired with an explosive Barolo. When you experience a classic Piedmontese meal on a gorgeous autumn day you are experiencing a complete culinary philosophy. It has been built over centuries on these particular hills, shaped by this particular climate that has been nurtured by glorious and attractive people. You are not just eating well- you are connecting to a special place. You will also need to exercise well to maintain your youthful figure after experiencing the Piedmontese lifestyle.
BUON APPETITO!
