Spotlight on Food: The Roman Dining Experience; PIPERO
Amalia and I have rented an apartment in Rome and will spend the next 4 months in the Eternal City. We will do a deep dive into Roman history and culture and also use it as a base to explore other fascinating regions in Italy. Therefore, prepare yourself for regular entries on food, wine and travel. Less focus on Trump’s dystopian vision and more on the the joys of a life well spent- La Dolce Vita! In that spirit, I will initiate this blogging chapter with our initial Rome restaurant review. Rest assured, you will not be reading a blow by blow analysis of all our dining experiences; instead only those we consider noteworthy or special. Basically, an evolving and “real time” list of dining recommendations. Enjoy!
We celebrated our 47th wedding anniversary at PIPERO, a glorious culinary outpost in the heart of Rome. It is located at Vittorio Emmanuele 250, directly across the street from Santa Maria in Vallicella, an historic church better known as “Chiesa Nuova.” The proprietor is Alessandro Pipero and he has created a sublime Michelin one star gem. Our experience was extraordinary. The restaurant masterfully balances classic Roman elegance with contemporary sophistication. A testament to the value of fusing modernity and tradition.
From the moment we arrived, the welcome was gracious and warm. Maitre d’ Achille Sardicello and the impeccable and polished service team created an atmosphere both personal and professional. The dining room is a study in understated elegance- just twelve beautifully spaced tables which ensure privacy- very minimalist. The space is intimate and refined with clean contemporary art and subdued lighting. There is a “cool vibe.” A delightful side touch is the opportunity for guests to curate the evening’s soundtrack on a Marshall speaker system. We chose Dylan and Mina and the music completed the dinner’s classic and contemporary persona.
Chef Ciro Scarmardelli’s eight course tasting menu demonstrated remarkable creativity and balance. Four starters, two pastas and two mains showcased extraordinary diversity- from delicate and flavourful mussels and clams to innovative takes on churro and radishes, outstanding ceviche and expertly prepared steak tartare. The Sardinian Fregola pasta course was memorable while the spaghetti carbonara represented Roman cuisine at its finest. The Amberjack was cooked to perfection and the beef filet was tasty and super rare (too bloody for Amalia). The desserts were fine, but our palates were exhausted by then.
The wine options were equally impressive. The carta is deep and there are good choices at more reasonable price points. We were seeking to avoid a second mortgage and with the sommelier’s enthusiastic assistance, we enjoyed a Damilano 2020 Chardonnay from Piedmont, a Travaglini Tre Vigne Gattinara (Nebbiolo) and a 2022 Maximo Umani Rochi dessert wine from the Marche region.
Pipero delivered an experience that transcended mere dining- it is culinary artistry served with warmth and precision. For special occasions, this is an impeccable choice. It is not cheap and you basically must choose the 6-8 or 10 course price fixe offerings. The menu is at the chef’s discretion, although the staff does give you the opportunity at the front end to rule out certain dishes or spices eg anchovies, clams, raw meats, raw fish. It is not a Friday nite hangout, but is a compelling choice if you want to experience Roman fine dining at its peak. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!
