A Social Sunset: “Aperitivo” in Italy
Our extended Italian interlude has introduced us to many wonderful cultural traditions. We have much to learn from a place with a 2800 year history. Truly, a seminar in the “Art of Living.” We have now fully embraced a soothing and pleasant Italian custom and ritual—“APERITIVO.” Essentially a very civilised gathering of family, friends, colleagues and community held in the late afternoon and early evening. Americans have a growing familiarity with the idea behind Aperitivo- we do “Happy Hour”- but the strikingly casual and informal Italian model is superior. Let’s examine the elements of Aperitivo that make it special.
Aperitivo commences daily between 600 and 700 pm and concludes around 800 or 900pm depending on our location and your personal whim. The timing is strategic- it is post workday, coincides with gorgeous sunsets and anticipates dinner. Properly done, it triggers your appetite for a night of fine dining. It can be held at home, a bar or any other cool public spot that offers the basics. There are no limitations or rules on the number of attendees. It can be 6 people at home or 60 people at the trendy neighbourhood wine bar. We have done both! You can do a drop in 30 minute visit or stay until the bitter end. The ritual was created in 1786 in Turin and was originally designed as marketing event for Vermouth- introducing the new spirits concoction to the general public. It flourished in Milan in the 20s and 30s. It was a northern Italy phenomena but spread widely over the entire peninsula after WWII. It then became a rite of passage by 2000 and is practiced daily in all corners of Italy. Any tourist visiting Italy in the last 25 yers will have been exposed to at least one Aperitivo invite. Research reveals the growth of Aperitivo correlated with a mass movement of young people moving from rural areas to the city- following the jobs. The youthful character of this demographic cohort had an impact on the evolution of Aperitivo. A lack of disposable income necessitated modest and cost conscious menu offerings. It was an attractive social option that featured small bites, snacks and discounted drinks. The rule is to keep it simple and don’t let the food interrupt the flow of conversation. It is a pause point in an Italian’s day and is purely social. Not fancy!
A special note on the role of alcohol in upholding this tradition. Its purpose is strictly functional- loosen the tongue, enable socialiation and trigger an appetite for dinner. Intoxication and over consumption is TABOO! The booze is accompanied by food and is not the focus of the program. The Aperitivo drinks are usually low in alcohol, frequently bittersweet spirits or fortified or sparkling wines. The mantra is to enjoy 1-2 drinks slowly over 1-2 hours. The liquor reinforces the social bonds that come naturally to Italians. Spirits enrich a comfortable and warm social event- no more and no less. They play a supporting role only. Classic aperitif offer Aperol Spritz, Campari Spritz, Negroni, Prosecco, the Hugo and/or the Americano. I was going to provide the recipes, but want to encourage your own research. Rest assured, they are all simple to prepare and serve. There are some regional idiosyncrasies, but you will adapt quickly. Finally, what do Aperitivo people eat at these soirees? Standards and favourites include Olives (often marinated), Patatines (chips or crisps), Noccilones (salted nuts), Focaccia (fancy bread), Bruschetta (toasted bread with toppings), Salumi and Formaggi (cured meats and cheeses), Verdure Sott Olio (vegetables in oil), Pizzete (mini pizzas), Tramezzzini (triangular small sandwiches) and Arancini (rice balls). Usually, a balanced presentation of flavours and texture.The common denominator is all are “user friendly.”
Similar to our experiences with wine and more formal cuisine, each region in Italy has developed Aperitivo with a singular personality. Based on our 2025 journeys, we can market ourselves as experts on the approaches of Sicily, Rome and Piemonte. We have sampled the best Aperitivo- from the far north to the distant south- a fair sampling. We will report later on Tuscany, Umbria, Venice, Marche, Puglia and Naples. Sicily was fun. The cosmopolitan island pits a spotlight on local wines, Amaro (a local brandy), or chilled Marsala. The food is Arancini, chickpea fritters, potato croquettes, olives and pecorino cheese. The atmosphere is warm, LOUD and exuberant. Aperitivo is usually outdoors in a public setting and is extraordinarily social with a bias toward traditional extended family. Piedmont is more formal with a sophisticated vibe- even old world elegance. Smaller gatherings. They typically feature high quality local sparkling wines or vermouth, reflecting Turin’s history. The food is Vitello Tonnato, Anchovies, Breadsticks, local cheeses like Robiola or gorgonzola and chocolates (another Turin and Piemonte specialty). Rome splits the difference. Aperol Spritz and Negronis are ubiquitous and you also see local Lazio region white wines. The scene is relaxed, chatty and animated. Two of the wine bars close to our apartment regularly feature Aperitivo attended by 50-60 people- literally humans spilling into the street. It also is very democratic- with a small “d”. Students and local artisans break bread with politicians, journalists and musicians. LOVE IT- it is now a central component of our daily routine and we love hosting them for friends at our place. We serve excellent vino!
We recommend Americans adopt the Aperitivo mode of living. My only qualifier is that all attendees should agree in advance not to discuss the Trump Administration. It won’t matter how good the cheese and mortadella is if you veer into that territory I do suspect it will take a major cultural adjustment though. Americans are very individualistic, very focused on productivity- less inclined to tackle purely social events. The purist Aperitivo guest isn’t looking to network - that would be too calculated. The goal is pleasant and easygoing conversation. Humor is also encouraged. You need to disconnect yourself from social media, your phone and your watch. Pure relaxation does not come naturally to the Hyper American. Plus, we need to drink less. People get hammered at Happy Hours and the consumption of liquor is the point- ignoring the inevitable and nasty hangover. Aperitivos are for romantics and humanists- get with the program.
Ultimately, we value the simplicity of Aperitivo. The combination of tasty small bites, skewers, dips, cheeses, pastries, nuts with a refreshing aperitif is unbeatable. The Italian art of balancing ingredients and creating delectable combinations with intuition and creativity is there in all its glory. The old saying is “What Grows Together, Goes Together.” Aperitivo reflects the Italian pride in their food and wine, but the spirit is relaxed, playful and not super serious. Ultimately, Montaigne would have excelled as an Apertivo conversationalist. See you at our next 600pm feast!
